THREE DAYS IN SAN JUAN

By Janet Mercel on 11.14.24

A U.S. territory since 1898, Puerto Rico retains such old-world spirit that it’s not difficult to imagine you’re in a land far away. Where else can you find turquoise waters and white sand beaches just a short flight from New York, while feeling immersed in the character (and coffee) of Europe? It only takes a few hours to drive from one side of the island to the other— so, if you plan your trip right, you could be surfing in Rincón and touring San Juan in a single visit.

During a recent stay with El San Juan Fairmont, our focus was on the walled city itself, with a couple of day trips for added flavor. In the Isla Verde neighborhood, minutes from historic Old San Juan and directly on a long stretch of Isla Verde Beach, the hotel and casino’s location and Bond-movie grandness make it one of the area’s best properties. (Don’t miss the world-class spa. If nothing else, head up to the 10th floor for one of the city’s best ocean views.) Fairmont’s high level, curated retreats are built around heritage, culture, architecture, and epicurean experiences— naturally with royal-treatment perks like ocean villas or presidential suites, private beachfront or poolside cabanas, and car service.

Our highlights from a weekend’s worth of island adventures, and more.

ARTS & CULTURE IN OLD SAN JUAN

Old San Juan is an exploration into the decorative arts, historic art collections and documents from a 16th century city where the need for protection from constant threats, by foreign powers and pirates, et al, is built into its very DNA. 

“El Morro”– the citadel Castillo San Felipe del Morro, with its original cannons and dungeons, is one of the largest fortifications built by the Spaniards in the Caribbean.

Casa Blanca– built as the home for Puerto Rico’s first governor, Juan Ponce de León. The explorer and eternal youth seeker died before he had a chance to live in the house, but this oldest residence in Old San Juan housed his descendants for generations.

Catedral de San Juan– the second oldest church in the Americas, where the world’s first archdiocese was founded. The Gothic and Spanish colonial cathedral also houses Ponce de León’s tomb. La Fortaleza– “The Fortress” is the oldest executive mansion in the U.S., (built from 1533 to 1540), and still the residence of the sitting governor.

Galeria Botello. Tucked away on Calle del Cristo is a truly great way to spend an afternoon. Throughout the midcentury, Spanish-born, French-trained, and Haitian-inspired artist Ángel Botello, along with his wife, opened several galleries throughout San Juan. The last of these, the 400-year-old Spanish colonial house where he lived and worked, contains Botello’s life’s work, along with significant local and international contemporary art. If you’re lucky, the artist’s son, Juan, may be there to show you around and offer insights into their creative legacy. The gallery is open to the public Monday to Saturday and the museum by appointment.

BOAT & BEACH

One of Fairmont’s next-level day trips is a chartered yacht excursion from the Fajardo marina to the uninhabited island of Icacos—a diamond-dust sand beach off the east coast. Cayo Icacos is the largest and most scenic of the many cays in the La Cordillera Nature Reserve. Explore marine life in the pristine waters, swim and sun on your beach oasis (with enough rosé and champagne to bathe in), then follow it up with an onboard seafood feast—shellfish tower, ceviche, caviar, and lobster tails—prepared by the Executive Chef. It’s not a bad way to spend a day.

EAT & DRINK

Caña. The first ever Puerto Rican chef to be a James Beard finalist (from 2015 to 2020), Chef José Enrique graduated from the Culinary Institute of America, before returning to his hometown of San Juan. At Caña at Fairmont, his absolutely fresh, authentic flavors– and the magical things he does to mofongo– are something to celebrate. Don’t skip the final round (rum cake!) from pastry chef Janeric Bayala. 

When not eating his own food, Chef says go to the Piñones Kiosks, 20-30 minutes outside of San Juan in coastal Loíza. These legendary open-air beachside stalls are the spot for traditional street food. Crispy codfish bacalaítos and conch fritters, smoked linguiça and chicken, blood sausage, green banana and pork or land crab alcapurrias, stuffed octopus arepas…we could go on.

Verde Mesa. If you try only one restaurant in Old San Juan, make it this one. Chef Gabriel Hernández, James Beard finalist, spearheads the kitchen at this chandelier-stuffed, mystical little jewelbox. Owner Loyda Rosa concocts fresh elixirs and tonics ranging from spicy to cleansing, like lavender, harissa and sumac, or anise, tarragon and pineapple. We shared tuna tiradito and toasted sourdough with cabbage cream, and seabass with cabbage stew and breadfruit in ginger ghee. 

SEE & DO

Hike and swim in El Yunque. 

The only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System, and it spans 29K acres with eight major rivers. Spend your quiet time in this sacred cultural space, exploring its dozens of hiking trails, swimming holes, and waterfalls. 

Rum Barrilito Tour and Mixology Class.

Head to Hacienda Santa Ana in Bayamón, where Puerto Rico’s oldest rum has been produced using the same traditional methods for 140 years to craft its signature barrel-aged spirit. Check out the 43,000-gallon rainwater collection tank, then step inside the bar for a tasting. Best of all, you can take their craft cocktail mixology class and learn how to replicate the perfect rum Old Fashioned with chocolate bitters at home.

STAY

Outside the resort experience, cozy, charming and old-world is the way to go. These are our picks for Old San Juan:

Hotel El Convento is one of the most haunted places on “The Isle of Enchantment” itself, reportedly by the spirits of nuns who lived in the original 17th-century convent. Unexplained noises, cold spots, and flickering lights—if you’re looking for quiet luxury amidst the mysteries of the conquistador era, this is it. It’s also breathtakingly beautiful; you can feel its magnetic pull from blocks away. 

100 Calle del Cristo, San Juan P.R.

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The Gallery Inn is a charming compound of sprawling terraces and secret gardens in a 500 year old National Historic Landmark. It’s also home to The Puerto Rico Charitable Trust for the Education of Young Musicians, with a concert room that regularly hosts world-renowned and up-and-coming local artists. 

204 Norzagaray Street, San Juan P.R.

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Check out our El Convento review and other Puerto Rico spots. 

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